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There are several steps to organic weed control in your lawn and garden. It takes patience and commitment, but you can prevail against unwanted weeds over time.

Weeds Happen

You have tilled the soil and added rich homemade compost. You have painstakingly encouraged worms, lady bugs and other good-for-your-garden guests. You have a garden you can be proud of. Then, you walk out the door and there are hundreds of weeds poking up from the mulch.

How did that happen?

Maybe your compost pile or mulch pile had a few seeds in it or maybe the wind brought over your neighbor’s dandelion collection. Whatever the reason, you now have weeds. Even though you may be tempted to use chemicals to get rid of them fast, it is better to use organic methods that may take longer. This keeps your surroundings healthier and more able to withstand weeds in the future.

Methods of organic Weed Control

Which method of weed control you use will depend on the size and type of garden you have.

Old Fashioned Weeding

One of the best methods of organic weed control is old fashioned weeding. It takes awhile, but if you can remove weeds from your garden before they begin to mature and seed then you will have fewer weeds to deal with next year and fewer the year after that.

The weeds are easily removed when they are small. Commit to spending an hour or so each day pulling these small intruders out of your organic garden.

Crowd Out Weeds

You can crowd out weeds with healthy plants. Weeds need sunlight, waster, and vitamins and minerals just like your plants. When you plant items close together, the weeds don’t have a chance to thrive. This doesn’t work with all categories of plants, but can work well with bush plants like green beans.

Mulch

Mulch provides weed control by keeping the weeds from getting light, vitamins and minerals or space. As soon as your seedlings are up, surround them with a thick layer of mulch. You may have to replace it during the season so be prepared to do that.

Many people like the plastic mulch because it does not need to be replaced as frequently. However, organic mulch breaks down and enriches the soil. Plastic mulches eventually just become fodder for overcrowded landfills.

Hoes and Other Tools

For larger weeds, using a hoe is a great thought. This is a good way to handle weeds in pathways and other large areas of the garden. Hoes as well help to break up hard soil and keep it ready to soak up as much water as probable when it rains.

Special guidance for organic lawns

Any sort of bare space will encourage weeds and clover. It is very important that you not walk on the lawn after it has been raining, if at all probable. You don’t want to cause muddy areas or kill the grass because that will encourage weeds.

As soon as you see an area that is bare, go ahead and re-seed it. This keeps the lawn growing only what you want it to.

It takes up to three years for organic weed control methods to become completely effective. frequently the organic gardener will see a constructive change the first year and then risingly less weeds as time goes by. Using all the methods together will allow you to slowly eradicate the weeds in your garden in a healthy way and build up the strength of your soil and the same time.

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Organic pest control for pear trees is imperative if you want to raise organic pears for market or for personal use.

Pears Are Hardy

In fact according opinion of National Sustainable Agricultural Service, pears may be the easiest fruits to grow organically. They grow well in almost every part of the country, and in a wide range of soil and climate states. Pears have fewer ailment and fewer predicaments with pests than other fruits as well.

It is very important to ask with your country Cooperative Extension Service to discover out the best varieties to grow in your area. Trees that are compatible with your climate and soil states will do better with less intervention, than those that are not.

Organic Pest Control for Pear Trees

Most of the pests and ailment associated with apples are as well associated with pear trees. The varyence is that pear trees tend to have these predicaments less frequently and with less intensity. In order to combat the pests in your pears, it is very important that you identify them correctly. If you are in doubt as to what you are dealing with, try to take a sample to a local nursery or county extension agent.

Pear Psylla

This is an insect that is somewhat like an aphid. The only fruit that it attacks is the pear and is the biggest predicament in pear orchards. The excrement of the psylla, called honeydew, supports sooty mold and black russeting. These ailment weaken trees where there is heavy infestation.

Surround is a kaolin clay that has been developed by the USDA. It is a particle film that has an fine track record with many pests, including pear psylla. The psylla as well has many organic enemies. Some nurseries and online resources sell these organic predators.

• Lacewing larvae
• Minute pirate bugs
• Predatory flies

Bugs

Many bugs like the stink bug and tarnished plant bug will eat pears. You can deal with these insects by allowing an unmown area of leguminous trap crops nearby. This will not only lure the bugs away from pears, but will provide a habitat for organic predators.

Surround works against these pests as well. Another product called Aza-Direct has been listed by organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) for use in organic pear orchards.

Mites

There are several varieties of mites. These small pests cause predicaments in the pear orchard both from the reduction in the photosynthetic efficiency of the leaves and because they can cause russeting of the fruit. Mites are worse when pears have been in drought states, so try to keep them well watered and mulched.

organic predators include:

• Green lacewings
• Ladybird beetles
• Minute pirate bugs
• Predatory mites
• Predatory thrips

Dormant oil sprays and Neem based biological insecticides are helpful in organic orchards that need to control mites.

Miscellaneous Pests

Other pests that can affect your pear orchard are:

• Apple maggot
• Coddling moth
• Pear slug
• Plum curculio
• Scale

removal affected areas of the tree, leaves, and fruit by hand and disposing of them can be an effective way to deal with these pests. Do not dispose of them in your compost pile, however.

Coddling moths can be trapped in a homemade trap. Fill a gallon milk jug with 1 cup vinegar, ½ cup molasses, 1/8 teaspoon of ammonia, and 5 cups of water. Cut a 2-inch hole just below the shoulder of the jug. Hang your trap in your pear tree, using up to three traps per tree.

Pear slugs can frequently be removed with a strong stream of water. This simple method can work for other pests, depending on the size of your orchard.

You can as well look into organic fruit tree sprays, homemade sprays, and other traps to help if you have a variety of pests.The most effective organic pest control for pear trees is to keep your trees healthy and well watered. Most pear tree varieties are not susceptible to pests and will thrive if given a chance.

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At some point in time every gardener must deal with pest problems.

Pests are not only irritating but can spread diseases and destroy crops. From time to time we are all faced with the decision whether to swat, scratch or scream when pests come to visit.
Through advertising we have been taught to pick up a can of insecticide, hold our breath and spray. But now we are beginning to learn about the personal and environmental risks associated with the use of toxic chemical insecticides.
But there are plenty of natural ways to keep bugs off of your plants – that is, there are lots of ways to keep the bad bugs off while attracting the good ones.

Beneficial Insects

Many insects in your garden are not harmful at all. Good insects such as ladybugs, lacewings, wasps, dragonflies can be gardeners’ allies, helping to control the numbers of bad insects. Organic pest control strategies include getting good bugs to work for you in the garden.

Every pest has a natural enemy, the key to successful pest control is to identify the pest and it’s natural enemy, releasing the Beneficial Insect early when pest levels are low and let nature take it’s course. Beneficial Insects attack and destroy only insects; they will not bother people, plants or pets.

Ladybugs and praying mantises are voracious predators of many garden insect pests, including aphids, whiteflies, spider mites and mealy bugs. It is excellent solution for natural pest control. This insect is a very hungry one, all too happy to eat aphids, fruit flies, grasshoppers, moths, crickets, and house flies… but that is not all that they eat.
They also tend to eat those beneficial insects like lacewings and hover flies. It is possible to buy cases of ladybugs or praying mantis eggs, if you want to include this hungry insect in your garden.

Many of the pests we are trying to kill are developing a tolerance to chemicals thus making them harder to stop while the Beneficial Insects nature intended to control pests are being killed off.

But there is an alternative, a natural alternative, beneficial insects. Prior to the introduction of toxic insecticides in the 1940’s the use of beneficial insects for pest control was standard practice.

Both the California citrus crop and the Hawaiian sugar field were saved with the use of beneficial insects.

Every pest has a natural enemy, the key to successful pest control is to identify the pest and it’s natural enemy, releasing the Beneficial Insect early when pest levels are low and let nature take it’s course. Beneficial Insects attack and destroy only insects, they will not bother people, plants or pets.

Most people start using beneficial insects because of safety concerns and then after they realize they are easier to use, give better long term results, and are priced competitively.

When people stop using toxic chemicals natural predators such as ladybugs and green lacewing start to make a comeback, butterflies and birds are more plentiful. In no time at all the backyard has been transformed into a natural garden.

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Beneficial Insects for your Garden

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Soil Requirements

For growing good crop of potatoes a well-drained, fine sandy loam soil, high in organic matter is preferred. In case of heavy clay or clay loam soils drainage problems should be corrected and improved by growing cover crops or adding aged manure or compost. Be cautioned, however, that manure may increase the incidence of potato diseases.

Seedbed Preparation

If a cover crop (rye or wheat are excellent choices) was planted the previous fall, it should be turned under before it exceeds 12 inches in height by tilling 8 to 10 inches deep, depending on the depth of the topsoil. After tilling, level the surface slightly so that furrows can be made. It is best to wait at least a week after tilling in the cover crop before planting the seed pieces.

Soil pH and Fertilizer Practices

The pH should be 5.0 to 5.5 as scab disease (brown corky tissue on surface of tubers) may be a problem in alkaline or “sweet” soils. Moderate amounts of fertilizer are required for big yields of potatoes.

Ideally, the fertilizer should be placed in continuous bands two to three inches to each side and slightly below the seed piece. However, many gardeners will use the fertilizer before tilling or spading. Fertilizer rates should be based on results of a soil test. A typical rate would be two and a half to three pounds of 8-16-16, 10-20-20, or equivalent per 100 square feet. When plants are four to six inches tall, band two to three pounds of fertilizer per 100 feet of row about 6 to 10 inches from the row, if growth is not satisfactory and if foliage is yellowish-green.

Variety Selection

There are a lot of good potato seed variety. Irish Cobbler is an excellent early maturing variety for the home garden, but seed is scarce. It should be planted early, from late March to mid-May, depending on the section of the state. Norland is an early, red-skinned variety, various strains of which are readily available. Another red-skinned variety is Pontiac, a late-maturing, high-yielding potato of fair cooking quality, but often misshapen. Superior is a white-skinned variety, maturing later than Irish Cobbler, but earlier than two other recommended varieties, Katahdin and Kennebec. These two are desirable when gardeners want to store potatoes.

Whichever variety is selected, use certified disease-free seed. Such seed is grown under rigid rules and carefully inspected by state authorities. The potato seed is not a true seed, but modified stem tissue known as a tuber. The true seed of the potato occurs in the small, inedible orange fruit the plant produces during mid-season.

Some feed and garden stores sell B-size seed-small tubers weighing 1-1/2 to 2 ounces. These tubers should not be cut before planting. If 4 to 6 ounce or larger tubers are used, cut them so that each piece is block shaped, contains at least one good eye or bud, and weighs about 1-1/2 ounces. It should be planted immediately after cutting.

Planting potato seeds

Plant the seed in shallow trenches 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 inches deep and cover with an inch or two of soil. The seed pieces should be spaced 9 to 12 inches apart in rows 28 to 34 inches apart. Nine to 12 pounds of seed will be needed for each 100 feet of row when 1-1/2 to 2 ounce seed pieces are planted 12 inches apart.

Cultivation and Weed Control

Due to the small area involved and the variety of potentially sensitive crops grown in the garden, chemical weed control is not recommended. Control weeds by shallow and frequent cultivation. Deep cultivation may cut potato roots and slow growth. When plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, begin to mound soil around the bases of the plants to start forming a ridge or hill. By the time the plants are 15 to 18 inches tall (at last cultivation), the ridge or hill should be 4 to 5 inches high. “Hilling up” is necessary to prevent greening of shallow tubers.

Insect and Disease Management

Most feed and garden stores sell approved insecticides and fungicides for use on potatoes. The spraying or dusting program should start as soon as the plants emerge and continue according to the product label until late summer or a few weeks before harvest. Flea beetles, leafhoppers, aphids and Colorado potato beetles are the major insects affecting leaves and stems. Early Blight and Late Blight are the major foliar diseases.

Garden area previously in sod may harbor wireworms, white grubs and other soil insects. These insects should be controlled before planting. Contact your local Cooperative Extension office for current control recommendations.

Harvesting and Storage of potatoes

For highest yields and best storage, potatoes should not be dug until two weeks after vines have naturally died down. This allows the skins to set and reduces skin peeling, bruising and rot in storage.
When harvesting at temperatures above 80 degrees F, potatoes should be picked up immediately and put in a dark place. Potatoes exposed to sun and high temperatures will turn green and may rot.
Most homes do not have a suitable place to store potatoes for more than four to six weeks.
To store potatoes for several months, the tubers should be cured in a dark place at 60 to 65 degrees F and a humidity of 85 percent or higher for 10 days.

After the tubers are cured, keep them in a cool (40 to 45 degrees F), dark place with high humidity. Under these conditions most varieties will not sprout for two to three months.

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